TRI-TEX Grass

Nothing says love for your lawn like a healthy application of fertilizer. But one size does not fit all. Fertilization should be tailored to your lawn’s needs.

Fertilizer packaging has three numbers on it: XX – XX – XX

- The first number is the amount of nitrogen (N)

- The second number is the amount of phosphate (P2O5)

- The third number is the amount of potash (K2O)

This is known as the fertilizer grade and is a national standard. A bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer contains 10 percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphate and 10 percent potash.

Test your soil with an over-the-counter soil tester or by taking samples to your local AgriLIfe agent.

• Choose the correct fertilizer mix for your soil and turf.
• Apply in two directions (North & South and East & West) to insure even and total coverage.
• Water in as specified on the packaging.
• Sit back and wait for the rich color to appear as the weather warms up.

If you have questions, contact your local garden center for help in picking the best fertilizer grade for your application.

If you have areas of your lawn that need sod or you’re lawn needs a fresh start, give us a call. We have got the right grass variety for your application.

Recent rains can cause broad leaf weeds to pop up overnight.

The best way to stop the spreading is to physically pull them up, getting the root structure if possible.

If the number of plants is too large to pull all of them, you may choose to apply a broad leaf weed post emergent eradicator.

Use a selective kill product, one specifically designed for your infestation. (Use of a nonselective product could damage your lawn.)

• Apply it only where needed. (Avoid broadcasting it in flower beds and close to trees.)
• Avoid using a combination weed and feed product. The general purpose herbicide may not be strong enough for certain weeds and the fertilization portion may not be the best for your particular lawn. (We’ll cover feeding your lawn next week.)
• An organic approach to weed control is the use 20% vinegar applied directly to the surface of the plant. While this doesn’t effect the root system it does kill everything it contacts. So be careful to keep the vinegar from contacting other plants.
• If you have questions or need help in identifying the type of weed(s) you have, contact your local lawn and garden center for recommendations on your specific situation.
• Wear proper protective clothing, gloves, mask and eye protection as needed, when broadcasting herbicides or poisons of any kind.
• Read and follow all instructions listed on the product’s packaging.

Most herbicides are designed for use during warm weather. If the temperature is cool or cold during your application, a complete kill may not take place and an additional treatment may be necessary.

In North Texas, the Winter can be as different from the Summer as day is to night.

If your lawn made it through our 70 plus days of over 100º, you either reprogrammed your irrigation system for more frequent watering or camped out with your sprinkler in hand. Well, it’s time to adjust how much and how often we water.

Shorter days with cooler temperatures means less evaporation and with many communities still under water rationing, overwatering needs to be avoided.

Place your sprinkler system on ‘Manual’ and periodically use a moisture sensor to check  if watering is necessary. While a dormant lawn is still in need of moisture, regularly scheduled watering can overwater your grass causing damage to the root system.

Place the probe of your moisture sensor at root level or just below and water only when necessary.

If you are taking an organic approach to your lawn, now is a good time to add Beneficial Nematodes for the control of grubs, fleas, fungus gnats, root weevils, sod worms and other subterranean pests that feed on turf roots.

Winterizing Your Lawn

Getting to the root of the subject

Since our warm season grasses go dormant during cold weather, now is the time to make preparations for Winter by fertilizing and aerating. The goal is to get the root system healthy.

After testing your soil to insure the proper fertilizer mixture, remember that Fall fertilizers usually have a higher potassium ratio to stimulate the root and rhizome growth. Fertilizing should be done in September or early October. Fertilizing too late in the Fall could cause damage in the event of an early frost.

Aerating in the Fall repairs your lawn after the compaction that has taken place during high traffic activities such as playing sports, gardening and just enjoying your outdoor environment. Aeration also provides valuable oxygen to your soil. A punch core aerator works well, especially in areas of heavy clay soils. This is the type of aerator that leaves small soil pellets on top of your lawn. This process opens the soil and is very beneficial when adding compost, sand or other topdressing to your lawn.

This is not the time to de-thatch your lawn. A small layer of thatch can protect roots during times of freeze and aid in retaining moisture.

If you fertilized in September, it’s time to apply a pre-emergent for the control of weeds. Pre-emergent work by keeping weed seeds from germinating during the time of grass dormancy. While not effective on weeds with an established root structure, pre-emergent can be very effective against weed seeds that have been deposited in your lawn.

Like we said last month, If you put your lawn to sleep healthy in the fall, it will wake up healthy in the Spring!